We returned to the tcdiga

Breakfast completed, we returned to the tcdiga, and resumed our journey by reasonably higher roads over the nice plains. Our customized was to sit down on the cart and drive, generally furiously, if the highway ran degree or downhill. Once we went uphill, Turi, his spouse, and I used to stroll ; and infrequently, in the direction of night, the previous couple would take a protracted stroll by themselves. As we have been driving steadily throughout one of many large tablelands, a yellow wagtail ran for a long way in entrance of the waggon. Petrika touched me together with his whip, pointed to the fowl, and mentioned it might deliver nice good luck. I used to be a lot , as a result of between wagtails and vagabonds there was, within the minds of the ancients, an affiliation which was transferred by mediaeval students to Gypsies, when the Gypsies grew to become acquainted objects of scholarly hypothesis in Europe.

Three centuries earlier than Christ, Greek poets quoted the /ayK^0S as an emblem of poverty ; and, three centuries after Christ, Italian peasants used the identical phrase as a nickname for tramps. Later, a mediaeval poet utilized the metaphor to himself, lamenting that, weary of the lifetime of a cinclus, he longed to be a snail, with a home of his personal. Fashionable naturalists have allotted the title cinclus to the water-ouzel, however the older writers appear all the time to have taken it to imply the wagtail, typically the water-wagtail ; and in these completely happy occasions of irresponsible etymology, when the research of language was much less a scientific self-discipline than an imaginative romance, they sought to derive the race-name Cingarus, “ Gypsy,” from the fowl. If this derivation needed fact, it possessed at the very least a sure appropriateness, for its supporters gave credit score to an unfounded legend which makes the wagtail a homeless wanderer, too feeble to construct a nest for itself. A few of them identified, in triumphant corroboration, that it’s also, just like the Gypsies, stressed and poor of plumage : they could have clinched their argument by including, what Shakespeare knew, that it’s pert.


The vagaries of the realized could be of little curiosity, have been it not that in western Europe the Gypsies themselves declare the water- wagtail as their very own. Each in Germany and Nice Britain it’s referred to as the Gypsy fowl (Romano tshiriklo), and honoured above all different feathered fowl. In an unpublished essay, Mr. Engelbert Wittich, a German Gypsy, who has, by his writings, carried out greater than some other Gypsy creator to elucidate the customs and superstitions of his tribe, depicts the enjoyment with which his brethren hail the looks of a water-wagtail, positive precursor of a fortunate day, throughout which success will attend them in all their undertakings. To scare such a customer, or try and do it the slightest damage, is counted a critical crime, and punished severely. By wagging its tail with energv, a single fowl warns the Gypsies that different travellers, not of Gypsy blood, are close to at hand ; but when a number of run hither and thither within the camp, or on the highway, it’s a signal that Gypsies might be met, most likely pals or relations.



Throughout the midst of the large fertile plain which stretches between the Balkans to the north and the Rhodope Mountains to the south, there get up the entire sudden some half-dozen rocky crags alongside the banks of the river Maritza. By what freak of nature these isolated rocks emerged ages up to now from the plain, or whether or not or not they’re merely the summits of submerged mountains, I’m not geologist adequate even to surmise. Nevertheless it’s intelligible to anyone why, in bygone days, the underside between these steep, turret-like hills should have been chosen as the situation of a metropolis. From the summits of any actually one in all them you’ll be capable to scour the plain in every course for miles and miles away.

No enemy might advance in direction of Philippopolis with out his technique being discovered from the watch-towers on these hill-tops hours sooner than his arrival. Their sides are even now so precipitous, their ascent so steep, that it might want to have been easy to render them nearly impregnable as fortresses inside the days of bows and arrows and battering-rams, and even of the Macedonian phalanx. Customized says that Philip the Good of Macedon was the distinctive founding father of city; and in as far as I can see, if there isn’t any such factor as a specific proof that he was, there could also be even a lot much less goal why he shouldn’t have been. In any case, Phllippopolis is a very historic metropolis; and I’ve little doubt that antiquarians might uncover proper right here traces of the numerous old-world dominions, which held sway in Jap Europe prolonged sooner than Sclavs and Turks had been ever heard of.

The Turks, however, had a marvellous facility for destroying the relics of antiquity ; and proper right here, as in all totally different parts of Bulgaria, I can see few traces of any establishing relationship once more rather a lot, if the least bit, previous the ultimate century. Fires, too, are such incidents of every day life in these outdated Turkish cities, with their slender, winding streets, and their picket houses overhanging and overlapping each other at every angle, that the marvel is, not that the outdated buildings aren’t of upper age, nevertheless that they should have survived so prolonged.

The principal quarter of the town

The principal quarter of the town nestles between two crags, which rise above the streets very rather a lot as a result of the Pizzo Falcone quarter at Naples rises above the Strada di Chiaja. From this centre the town has stretched out in all directions into the plain, and has even extended previous the river. Philippopolis has further of an Oriental look than any metropolis I’ve ever seen in Bulgaria. Lying as a result of it does some 1500 to 2000 toes beneath Sofia, it enjoys a rather a lot milder, though I’m suggested a far a lot much less healthful native climate.



Wooden galleries running round them

Others are broad and big, with nice cupolas above them, and, far up, wood galleries operating spherical them. At times you come across an outdated fountain of stained marble and dim faience about which males are squatting on their haunches to scrub their faces and hands- and their rigorously bared arms. The lanes are paved and are sometimes slippery. Just below the lofty roof there are home windows of white glass, and about them, and on arches and partitions, there are crude decorations in sturdy blues and purples, yellows and greens. The intense retailers from many lands don’t beset you with importunities as you cross; however generally a lustrous pair of eyes invitations you to pause, or a darkish and long-fingered hand gently beckons you towards a jewel, a prayer-carpet, a weapon, or one thing unusual in silver or gold or ivory.

In the future a person from Bagdad invited me to purchase an image as I drew close to to him. It was the portrait of a dervish’s cap labored in silk. The cap, orange- coloured and silver, was perched upon a small desk (within the image) above which hung curtains in two shades of inexperienced. A heavy gilt body surrounded this “outdated grasp” of the East. We bargained. The service provider’s languages have been damaged, however at size I understood him to say that the cap was an ideal likeness. I retorted that every one the dervishes’ caps I had seen upon dwelling heads have been the colour of earth. The service provider, I imagine, pitied my ignorance. His eyes, palms, arms, and even his shoulders have been eloquent of compassion. He lowered the value of the image by about half a farthing in Turkish cash, however I resisted the blandishment and escaped into the jewel bazaar, half regretting a misplaced alternative.

Many Turkish girls come to the bazaars

Many Turkish girls come to the bazaars solely to satisfy their lovers. They cowl a secret want by a pretense of constructing purchases. From the higher ground of the yellow-blue-and-red kiosk, by which Turkish sweets are offered, and you may eat the breasts of chick-ens cooked deliciously in cream and served with milk and starch, I’ve watched these refined truants passing of their fairly disguises suggestive of a masked ball. They give the impression of being delicate and swish of their skinny and shining robes, like dominoes, of black or generally of prune-color, with crape dropping over their faces and letting you see not sufficient; for a lot of Turkish girls are fairly.



Travel with the Zagundzhis

“ This nice one needs to journey with the Zagundzhis ! ” The elders drew of their breath, shuddered with obedient horror, and made gestures of protest. It was as if the Lord Mayor had introduced to the aldermen that the King proposed to brush Petticoat Lane. “ He might be lined with lice to the elbows,” Osman continued, “they’ll give him hens to eat which have died a pure loss of life; they’ll rob him, minimize his throat within the evening, and depart his physique in a ditch.” Once more the elders shuddered at my destiny. “ I might fairly all my youngsters ought to die ! ” After which, with a powerful blow on the little desk, and the voice of a tyrant figuring out the destiny of a nation : “ I can’t enable it! ”

OUR diplomatic mission, our go to of ceremony, had failed and my place remained as uncomfortable as ever. For awhile I cheered myself with the delusion golden key would simply open the door of escape, however after providing what should have been regarded by the Zagundzhis as a small fortune, I noticed that Osman’s authority was so nice that, because of his prohibition made thus publicly, no Gypsy may very well be discovered within the Mohammedan mahala over which he dominated, who was prepared to danger his displeasure by travelling with me. Meti withdrew his promise without delay, declaring that the chief would kill him if he disobeyed, and that the expedition was unattainable.

At first the one answer of the problem seemed to be the profitable or shopping for of Osman’s approval, and he confirmed no indicators of yielding. However simply as issues appeared to have reached a hopeless deadlock, there arrived close to Varna a celebration of eight tents of Christian

Gypsies who didn’t acknowledge Osman’s authority. They’d not one of the reason- destroying allurement of the Zagundzhis—one didn’t love them for the sake of their dust and rags and vermin, and the fantastic savagery implied. If they’d been soiled and ragged, one would have revered them regardless of their faults: not for his or her faults’ sake. However as a matter of truth they appeared at first sight to be clear, trustworthy, industrious people, well mannered, hospitable, and effectively supplied with the necessaries of their nomad life. They weren’t town-Gypsies : they didn’t beg, and the kids have been so shy that, when addressed by strangers, they lined their faces with their arms and cried.



Bulgarian journalists visiting England and private Balkan holidays

The explanations for the proposal have been fascinating sufficient to warrant recital at size.

1)The newspapers are the chief literature of the Bulgarian plenty. Books take second place — each Bulgarian reads his newspaper, however solely a proportion learn books. Thus the newspapers are a significant medium for propaganda.

2)Bulgarian journalists occupy a really excessive place within the nation and are very extremely considered. Typically journalists turn into ministers and ministers journalists — there are any variety of journalists. Thus the Bulgarian journalist is a person of significance, partly for himself and partly on account of the affect he workouts, by his papers, over the plenty.

three)Numerous European international locations, alive to the significance of the press, and inquisitive about Bulgaria for political or financial causes, have set a precedent. Over the past two years Bulgarian journalists have been invited to go to Italy, France, Germany, Poland, Hungary, Yugoslavia and Rumania, and their bills have been paid.

four)Other than apparent business pursuits Nice Britain has, I keep, a really important political curiosity in Bulgaria, mainly on account of the Dardanelles query. Bulgaria’s strategic significance was proved as much as the hilt in the course of the World Conflict — and she or he entered that battle towards us largely as a result of we uncared for to take, in time, apparent steps to stop that occurence. The disastrous penalties are issues of widespread data. However, throughout latest years, no severe steps no matter have been taken to make British propaganda on this nation, whereas different European international locations have been spending giant sums of cash for this function, sustaining faculties and golf equipment. It might be argued that British status is already excessive sufficient —that British energy and tradition are extensively recognized. This I contest. It was. However now it’s in grave hazard of eclipse by the actions of others. The reminiscences of the plenty are quick, and the press is the very best medium for reviving them.

Bulgarian journalists visiting England

5)Bulgarian journalists visiting England would write their experiences and impressions in a sequence of articles. However much more necessary, when occasions happen in Englund or affecting England, these journalists may have perspective or “background.” These factors held good earlier than the change of regime right here, [19 May 1934 — RJC] they usually have greater than ever now, for the reason that newspapers will probably be obliged, owing to the censorship and the suppression of social gathering politics, to show greater than ever earlier than to international affairs for “copy”. There’s, furthermore, the worth of non-public contacts between these Bulgarians who go to England and the chums they’ll make there; and the mere proven fact that an invite is issued would make a most beneficial impression.

The Balkans, oh these Balkans! At all times the Balkans have atrracted folks as a result of there’s something about them. In my view, you folks ought to pack and go for private Balkan holidays.


The hill toward Yildiz to see the Selamlik and things to do in Bulgaria

In the future I went up the hill towards Yildiz to see the Selamlik. That morning the sultan was going to hope within the mosque of wooden which Abdul Hamid constructed near the mysterious, walled-in quarter of palaces, harems, kiosks, gardens, barracks, and parks which he made his jail. From the Bosporus you possibly can see it extending from the hilltop nearly to the ocean, an amazing property, outdoors the town, but dominating it, with dense groves of bushes during which.wild animals had been saved, with open areas, with solitary buildings and contours of roofs, and the cupola of the mosque ot the troopers. All about it are the excessive partitions which a coward raised as much as shield him and his worry. The mosque is under the good entrance- gates on a steep hillside past the partitions. A big fashionable home, white, with inexperienced shutters, during which Abdul Hamid used to grant audiences and, I consider, to provide banquets, seems down on it. From the higher home windows of this dwelling the Turks say the ex-sultan typically stared at his metropolis by means of highly effective glasses.

You wish to know what the things to do in Bulgaria are? I can inform you. These are adventures, peaceable walks within the nature, noisy seashores, in fact historical past and much more…

The mosque will not be giant

The mosque will not be giant. It’s yellow and white, with a minaret of plaster on the aspect subsequent the ocean, and a graveled courtyard surrounded by inexperienced iron railings and planted with a couple of bushes. On the aspect subsequent to Yildiz is a steep financial institution. A highway runs up the hill to the left of the mosque as you face Yildiz, and one other hidden highway descends from the gates and offers entry to the’ courtyard behind the mosque. The sultan has subsequently a alternative of two routes, and no one appears to know beforehand which method he’ll come. There have been only a few vacationers in Constan-tinople once I was there. Folks had been afraid of battle, and earlier than I left the Orient specific had ceased to run. However I discovered awaiting the padishah many Indian pilgrims, a big troop of pilgrims from Trebizond who had been on their solution to Mecca, a number of Persians sporting black toques, and an excellent many Turks. These had been within the courtyard near the mosque, the place I used to be allowed to face by the arisrtocratic younger chief of police, who wore a woolly, grey, fez-shaped cap. Outdoors the railings stood a dense crowcj of veiled girls.

Quickly after I arrived a squadron of the body-guard rode up from the town, carrying red-and-green pen- , nons on lengthy staffs, and halted earlier than the gates of the palace. And nearly on the similar second the palace musicians, in dark-blue, purple, and gold, sporting quick swords, and carrying shining brass devices, marched into the inclosure. They stood nonetheless, then dropped their devices on the bottom, moved away, and sat down on the financial institution, lolling in simple attitudes. Time slipped by, and essential individuals strolled in, officers, court docket officers, attendants.


The breath of the steppes was wandering afar to seek

Russia was within the wind, I believed. The breath of the steppes was wandering afar to hunt—what? The breath of the desert? The nice mosque confronted it, Islam erect, and now darkish, forbidding below the darkening sky. Even the minarets had misplaced their delicate purity, had turn out to be fierce, prayers calling down destruction on unbelievers. And all of the cries of Stamboul appeared to assemble themselves collectively in my ears, keening over the ocean above which I stood —voices of many countries; of Turks, Arabs, Circas-sians, Persians, of males from the wilds of Asia and the plains of India; voices of bashi-bazouks and of slaves; even, skinny excessive voices of eunuchs. From the quays to proper and left of the bridge crowds of individuals rose to my sight and hurried away; to them crowds of individuals descended, sinking out of my sight.

Troopers and hamals handed, upright and armed, bending beneath the burden of unimaginable hundreds. Calls of Albanian boatmen got here up from the ocean. From the town of intently packed fishermen’s vessels rose right here and there little trails of smoke. On their decks dim figures crouched about wavering fires. A gnarled beggar pushed me, muttering, then whining uncouth phrases. Alongside the curving shore, towards the cypress-crowned peak of Eyub, lights had been strung out, marking the waterside. Behind me tall Pera started to sparkle meretriciously. The Greek barbers, I knew, had been standing* impudently earlier than the doorways of their little saloons, watching the night pageant because it surged slowly by means of the Grande Rue and towards the Taxim Backyard. Diplomats had been driving dwelling from the Elegant Porte in victorias. The “cinemas” had been gathering of their mobs. Tokatlian’s was thronged with Levantines whispering from mouth to mouth the present lies of the day. Beneath, close to the ships, the enterprise males of Galata had been speeding out of their banks, previous the big round-browed Montenegrins who stand on the steps, out of their workplaces and retailers, like a mighty swarm of disturbed bees. The lengthy shriek of a siren from a steamer close to Seraglio Level tore the gloom. I went on, regardless of menacing Valide Sultan, 1 misplaced myself within the great maze of Stamboul.

Stamboulnear the waterside is filled with contrasts so sharp

Stamboul close to the waterside is filled with contrasts so sharp, so unusual that they bewilder and allure, and typically render uneasy even one who has wandered alone by means of many cities of the East. Sordid and filthy, there’s but one thing grandiose in it, one thing hostile and threatening within the watchful crowds which might be without end passing by. Between the homes the sea-wind blows up, and also you catch glimpses of water, of masts, of the funnels of steam-ers. Above the cries of the nations rise the long- drawn wails and the hootings of sirens. The site visitors of the streets is made extra complicated by your fixed consciousness of the site visitors of the ocean, embraced by it, virtually mingling with it. Water and wind, mud and dirt, cries of coachmen and seamen, of motor-cars and steamers, and troopers, troopers, troopers passing, all the time passing. Via a window-pane you catch a glitter of jewels and a glitter of Armenian eyes gazing stealthily out.