Noyes’ first contact with Bulgaria occurred as he approached Vidin streaming down the Danube. The town appeared as “a real Turkish metropolis” with a inhabitants of about twenty thousand souls and the residence of a “Greek Bishop”. As his boat approached town, “the magnificence” of Vidin he noticed from a distance disappeared. The physician confirmed larger curiosity within the pure surroundings than within the metropolis. The motion of water, assisted by different pure causes had produced on the Bulgarian hills “curious and incredible shapes”, which, in lots of cases, had “the precise resemblances of navy works.”
Noyes visited Lorn, Nikopol, and different cities and made observations concerning the previous and current situation of those locations. The previous cities consisted, in response to Noyes, of three components: the grad or fortress, occupying probably the most elevated place; and “barosch” or decrease metropolis, and the parlance or suburbs exterior town correct the place the decrease courses resided. The previous cities have been destroyed through the Ottoman conquest and have been by no means rebuilt. The up to date cities have been of “real Turkish character”, unaffected by European concepts. The writer regarded Ruse as an important transportation heart on the Decrease Danube and famous its morocco and silk factories.
Managed by a Christian
Noyes devoted twenty-six pages describing Silistra. The ravages of warfare have been to be seen all over the place. Because the writer handed by town gates, it appeared to him “as if the genius of dying reigned inside these solitary partitions” of the city-fortress the place “individuals glide alongside the slim streets and stony lanes extra like ghosts than human beings.” He was shocked to seek out that there was not one lodge or lodging of any sort within the metropolis owned or managed by a Christian. The Turkish half was “filthy and dusty,” whereas the houses of the Bulgarians have been low cabins with windowless court-yards.
Noyes was very a lot conscious of the horrible sufferings that warfare introduced on the individuals. As he handed by town of Svishtov he in contrast the attractive vineyards across the city with the destruction produced by warfare. The Russo-Turkish warfare, he wrote, “From a warfare of monarchs, got here so close to merging right into a warfare of races.”
Going by the Bulgarian countryside, the American doctor wrote: “There’s however one sight extra unhappy than that of abandoned cities and villages: it’s to behold well-filled cities of the lifeless in locations as soon as busy with life to step from headstone to headstone in solitudes as soon as throbbing with multitudes of human beings. This sense of loneliness within the wilds of Bulgaria typically weighed upon me with a secret terror.”