The harbor

Your again to the harbor

You have got been strolling away from the ocean, together with your again to the harbor, and right here is one other, however minute, harbor nestling beneath an amazing fortress wall above which, in a backyard, some younger troopers are idly leaning and laughing beneath timber with leaves of gold and red-brown. Brightly painted vessels, intently packed collectively, lie on the blue-green water. Past them are the timber of Blazekovic Park. And simply beneath you, in your proper, is the nice, yellow stone Porta di Terra Ferma, with its winged lion of St. Mark. Past, over the slender exit from the harbor, the landlocked Canale di Zara, which typically, particularly at night, jogged my memory of the Venice lagoons, lies glittering within the solar. And a Venetian fort on the height of Ugljan exhibits like an odd and decided shadow in opposition to the blue of the sky.

The good white campanile which dominates Zara, and which from the ocean seems mild and swish, is the campanile of the duomo, Sant’ Anastasia, and was partly constructed by the Venetians, and accomplished not a few years in the past. From the slender road which skirts the duomo this campanile, although majestic, seems heavy and virtually overwhelming, too large, too tremendously stable, for the little city during which it’s set. And its blanched hue, stunning from the ocean, has a reasonably disagreeable impact in opposition to the deep, time-worn shade of the church, the facade of which, with its two rose home windows, one giant, one small, its three stunning, mellow-toned doorways, and its curious and by some means touching, although stolid, statues, could be very superb. The inside, not specifically fascinating, comprises some wonderful Gothic stalls courting from the fifteenth century. They’re of black wooden, relieved with bosses and tiny statuettes of brilliant gold, and above each is the half-length of a gilded and painted man, sporting a beard and holding a scroll. The Porta Marina, by way of which the chief harbor is gained, is outstanding for its carved, dark-gray lion, companioned by two white cherubs of stone brilliantly lively regardless of their virtually terrifying weight problems. One of the stunning issues in Zara is the fragile and beautiful campanile of Santa Maria, over 600 years previous. St. Grisogono, the church of town’s patron saint, was within the arms of workmen and couldn’t be visited after I was in Dalmatia.

Entire of Zara is surrounded by water

Virtually the entire of Zara is surrounded by water. On the nice partitions of the traditional fortifications are gardens, and from these gardens you look down on quiet inlets of the ocean. Outdated buildings, previous partitions and gardens, tiny, medieval streets by way of which no carriage ever passes, fountains, lion gateways, painted boats mendacity on clear and apparently motion-less waters shut in from the open sea by lengthy traces of mountainous islands, pine-trees and olives and golden vineyards, and over all an historical music of bells. It’s tough to say good-by to Zara, despite the fact that Spalato sends out a summons from the ri- viera of pink and of gold, despite the fact that Ragusa calls from its leafy groves beneath the Fort Imperiale.

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